Table of Contents

I.Introduction
II.Body Shapes
III.Entire Body Shapes
IV.Face Shapes & Complimentary Hairstyles
V.Special Considerations
VI.Common Beauty & Skin Questions & Answers

Beauty is a universal language.  What did Plato mean when he described beauty as existing in the proportion of things? Think of something beautiful;  a sunset, a landscape, a person. All the parts flow into one breathtaking whole. No one certain feature or style produces beauty but rather the relationship or harmony created when all components come together into a total image.

Why does a hairstyle, for example, look great on one client and terrible on another? Again the answer lies in the quote from Plato. It lies in the proportions. We cannot change a person’s body or their face shape. But what we can use the hair to create good proportions between the hairstyle and the face and between the entire head and body. 

Throughout history artist’s like Rembrant and Michael Angelo drew and sculpted the human body. They found out some golden rules about the ideal proportions between the body and the head, including the hairstyle. Today those proportions have created a standard that is taught in art classes all over the world. 

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BODY SHAPES

TALL & LANKY: Clients need volume and/or longer hair. Tall women’s hair (ideally) should touch the shoulders, at least in the back. Men should also have longer and fuller styles.

AVERAGE: Clients are people with a universal height, dominant shoulders and average hips. Women in this category are, in general, between 5’5” to 5’9” while Men are usually between 5’7” to 6’1”.
A hairstyle that is short with volume on top will make them look taller and a hairstyle that is long (shoulder length or longer) with volume at the bottom will make them look shorter.

SHORT & STURDY: Clients need hairstyles with height and volume on the top. Styles that touch the shoulders would tend to make them look shorter.

FOR A SHORT NECK: Keep the hair close or off the face.
FOR A LONG NECK: Frame the face and the neck with hair.
FOR WIDE SHOULDERS: Wide shoulders need a hairstyle with a narrowing design line in the back. Lines that imply a steep V shape. These lines give the illusion of narrowing the shoulders and stretching the body. For wide shoulders add ELONGATION.
FOR NARROW SHOULDERS: Add Width. Flat and wide, oval lines work as well.

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ENTIRE BODY SHAPE
If the hair is too small for a large figured person, the proportion will be unbalanced and the body will look even larger. A person with a petite body will easily become overpowered by a large hairstyle and, therefore, look even smaller.
For A Large Figure you need MORE hair giving you better balance.
For A Small Figure You need LESS hair and LESS length giving you better balance.

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FACE SHAPES
Oval Facial Shape: Rounded, long and narrow. Many style choices are available for Oval faces because they look very harmonious. 

Round Facial Shape: Add height to the crown area. Add width below the jaw line or above the temple. Avoid width on the sides.

Square Facial Shape: Sweep short hair up over ears. Add soft texture lines to conceal square corners. Begin side fullness at temples. Avoid solid lines at jaw line.

Oblong Facial Shape: Keep hair equally full on top and above ears. Add width at the sides. Use a side part. Avoid styling hair straight or flat.

Pear Facial Shape: Add width at the forehead (in short or medium styles). Let long hair cover the jaw line to conceal its width. 

Diamond Facial Shape: Use a side part. Add width at forehead and jaw line. Avoid adding width at cheekbones.

Heart Facial Shape: Add width at jaw line. Leave fullness of hair at the nape that can be seen from the front. 

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SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS
Receding Hairline: If you have a receding hairline, avoid a side part directly in the center of the recession corner. Style with no part if possible. Let hair fall slightly forward to cover the receding area. 

Protruding Ears: Large or protruding ears could be covered with longer hair or have more volume and fullness at the sides if the hair is short. 

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COMMON EVERYDAY BEAUTY QUESTION & ANSWERS

Q: Is it necessary to shampoo my hair every day? 
A: Frequency of shampooing varies with each individual, depending on lifestyle and the amount of oils secreted in the scalp. Always use a professional formula shampoo to keep hair healthy. 

Q: How often should I use a deep-penetrating protein treatment? 
A: Protein treatments are formulated to restore damaged hair. They may be used once or twice a week, but for a limited period of time. Try using a deep penetrating protein treatment once a week for a month until hair is healthy. Then use the treatment once or twice a month thereafter. Overuse can be harmful to hair and dry it out. 

Q: Because my hair is so thin, I continually have split ends. Is there something I can put on my hair to keep the ends from appearing split? 
A: To control split ends, condition and trim hair on a regular basis. Minimize the use of excess heat on hair with blow dryers, hot rollers and curling irons. Use a thermal styling lotion, like New Image Damage Free Conitioner/Styler, before blow drying or using hot rollers. For instant results, try a hair shiner, which is a silicone-based product used by rubbing onto ends of hair and styling. Shiners not only close the cuticle, but also fill in gaps where it is broken. They won't solve the problem, but they make hair look shinier and softer. Try Ion Anti Frizz Oil Free Glosser, Professional Prescription Replenishing Hair Shiner. Be sure to follow directions. A tiny bit is all you need! 

Q: A stylist told me that constantly pulling back my hair in a ponytail or using hot rollers too much can put me at risk for hair loss. What should I use to build strength and resilience? 
A: First, be sure you are using covered seamless elastics, like dcnl DCNL Smooth-Mi Ponytail Holders to help minimize snags and hair breakage. To strengthen hair, use protein treatment weekly for a month, then every other week. Try Moisturizing Protein Packs to add elasticity and tensile strength, which help prevent breakage.

Q: Why is it important for me to consult with my stylist before I have a perm? 
A: All perms are designed to be used on specific hair types. It is important for your stylist to consult with you first to determine exactly what you want from a perm. It is also important for the stylist to know your lifestyle, medical conditions or time limitations to select the right formula. Then, the stylist must choose the correct wrapping technique and rod size to achieve the results you desire

Q: My hair was highlighted too much, and I look like I have white hair. What can I do? 
A: Your stylist can weave low lights through your hair, which involves weaving darker strands through the hair. 

Q: I have dark roots, even though my hair is naturally blonde, and I do not want to color my hair. What can be done to blend my dark roots with the rest of my natural hair color? 
A: Your stylist can apply large patches of highlighting at the roots to blend them with the rest of your hair. After adding color, each section of hair is wrapped in foil and then exposed to a heat lamp to let the color penetrate. These warm, blonde, color-correcting highlights blend the dark roots into the rest of the hair. 

Q: Is it true women look better as blondes as they get older? 
A: This is a myth. As people age, their skin tone tends to change and lighten. For this reason, a SOFTER hair color rather than lighter hair color is more flattering. While very dark or very bright colors look harsh, a brunette or auburn color can add color and brightness to mature skins. A hair color that is too light can make the skin look washed out. 

Q: What guidelines should be followed in choosing a hair color? 
A: Choose a color close to your natural shade. Consider your skin tone and eye color. Hair color with warm tones, i.e., red, gold and auburn shades, are more compatible with warm skin tones and someone with brown, green or green-hazel eyes. These colors of eyes have the presence of yellow. Cool-tone colors, i.e., lighter gold or ash, are more suitable to fair skinned or sallow skin tones. Eyes are usually light to dark blue or hazel-gray, with no yellow. Make a subtle change first. You can always go more daring the next time! 

Q: I am pregnant. Can I have my hair colored? 
A: Hair color is completely safe during pregnancy. However, consult your doctor regarding the effects any medications may have on your hair color. 

Q: What is the best way to remove calluses and rough, dry skin from my feet? 
A: To remove dry skin and calluses, give yourself a spa pedicure at home. Start with Heel to Toe Invigorating Foaming Foot Soak, so soften dry skin and calluses. Follow with Heel to Toe Exfoliating & Polishing  Foot Scrub to polish, smooth and soften feet. Finish with 
Heel to Toe Conditioning Leg & Foot Lotion. 

Q: What is the best way to tweeze my brows? 
A: First, brush the hairs in the direction of the hair growth. Isolate the hair you want to tweeze. Always tweeze in the direction of the hair growth. Pull ONE hair at a time, gently and smoothly. Do not yank the hair out. Ouch! Brows should start just above the inner corner of the eye and extend slightly past the outer corner of the eye. TIP Quick Shave For a smooth, quick, dry-shave clean-up on legs, rub Clubman Shave Cream on areas you wish to shave. When finished shaving, wipe off excess cream with towel or washcloth. Legs feel fresh and smooth, thanks to the aloe vera in the cream. 

Q: What is the best way to remove facial hair myself? 
A: Clean & Easy Brush-On Facial Hair Remover dissolves the hair at the skin level. Another easy-to-use solution is Gigi Hair Removal Strips for the face. 

Q: What causes acne? 
A: There are several factors that can contribute to breakouts: heredity; a fluctuation in the level of hormones caused by puberty, pregnancy or menstruation; improper cleansing and the use of incorrect skin care products; stress; and irritation caused by constant chafing. There is no proof that acne is caused by food products, but food allergies can cause rashes resembling acne. 

Q: What is the purpose of exfoliating? 
A: Exfoliation is the process of removing the dead cells on the top layer (stratum corneum) of your skin. To a lesser extent, exfoliation can help dislodge blackheads. The procedure is referred to as "exfoliation" because when a mild abrasive is used on the skin, the top layer of dead skin cells is shed or exfoliated. Exfoliators include everything from washcloths, buffing sponges, facial brushes and loofahs to cleansing grains, sloughing cleansers and scrubs (cleansers or moisturizers that contain abrasive particles or ingredients), to alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid formulas that exfoliate chemically. In moderation and performed gently, exfoliating can be beneficial for most skin types. Exfoliating stimulates circulation and leaves skin looking smoother, finer and clearer. 

Q: Can I wear makeup over acne products without aggravating my skin? 
A: Yes. Makeup can easily be worn over acne treatments, but be sure to choose makeup products that are oil-free and noncomedegenic (non-clogging). Read labels carefully. 

Q: Lately my chin area has been breaking out. Could this be caused by the telephone? 
A: Hands, sports equipment, clothing or even the telephone can induce acne mechanica, a form of acne caused by repeated rubbing or touching. Try to avoid touching the phone to your face. If your chin area tends to be oily, wipe the phone with a cleanser,such as Citrus Mist Germicidal Deodorizing Cleaner ,after using the it. Also, because phones are both touched and breathed upon by many people, bacteria can build up. Make sure the phone is cleaned frequently.

Q: I have moderate acne—small pimples and blackheads on my face. Is soap the best cleanser for my skin? 
A: Many dermatologists believe that the best way to cleanse acne-prone skin is with a mild soapless or non-soap cleanser. Try Beyond Belief ABH Deep Pore Oil Free Foaming Cleanser, with alpha beta hydroxy acids to gently deep clean and unclog pore. Acne-prone skin should always be treated gently. Don't scrub your face with abrasive sponges or cleansers. Wash using gentle circular motions and lukewarm, not hot, water. Do not squeeze pimples! Squeezing can cause more skin eruptions and can cause scarring. To control pimples, follow cleansing with an acne-control product containing benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid or alpha hydroxy acids. Try Beyond Belief ABH Intensive Blemish Stop. 

Q: What are blackheads? 
A: Blackheads, like whiteheads, are a mixture of dead skin cells, oil and bacteria. When exposed to the oxygen in the air, a chemical reaction causes this mixture to darken. Try Beyond Belief ABH Clean Pore Nose Peel to unclog, clean and tighten pores. 

Q: I have oily skin, how can I best cleanse it? 
A: For oily skin, cleanse two to three times daily using a bar or liquid cleanser formulated for oily skin. (Avoid oil-based cleansing creams.) Try Beyond Belief ABH Deep Pore Oil Free Foaming Cleanser or Black Opal Blemish Control Complexion Bar. Use a soft cloth or your finger tips to work up a lather. Rinse thoroughly to remove all traces of product and towel dry. Following cleansing, moisten a quilted cotton pad with a toner, such as Purist Clarifying Skin Toner. Wipe pad across oily areas of face. If skin is very oily, use a toner as needed during the day to control excess oil. 

Q: My skin is dry. Should I use a rinseable or a cream-based cleanser? How often? 
A: Dry skin can be cleaned twice daily with a non-soap cleansing bar, a rinseable lotion formulated for dry skin or a cleansing cream. Soap tends to be drying, so it is not recommended. For a non-drying cleansing bar, try Beyond Belief Non-Drying Complexion Bar or Ambi Complexion Cleansing Bar. For a rinseable cleanser, try Beyond Belief Gentle Skin Cleanser or Purist Gentle Skin Cleanser. For a cleansing cream, try Queen Helene Cleansing Cream. Using gentle, circular motions, work up a lather with your finger tips or a soft cloth. Rinse thoroughly and pat dry, or remove cleansing cream with tissues or a soft, luke warm cloth. After cleansing, apply moisturizer. 

Q: My skin is dry. Should I use a moisturizer under my foundation? 
A: Yes. People with dry, normal, combination and even oily skin should use a moisturizer formulated for their skin type under foundation. Moisturizers not only keep skin soft and smooth, but also help foundation blend more easily and adhere to the skin. For dry skin, try Beyond Belief Vitamin C Moisturizing Cream, to promote skin renewal, clarify and protect skin from environmental damage. Beyond Belief Vitamin C Daily Moisture + SPF 15 is a light, non-greasy lotion that is perfect for most skin and contains sun protection. Beyond Belief ABH Oil-Free Moisturizer is perfect for oily skin and helps control break-outs as it reduces flakiness. 

Q: My eyes are so small. How can I make them appear larger? 
A: Avoid lining your eyes. While lining defines the eyes, it also tends to close them. The solution to this problem is to create the illusion that the entire eye area is larger by gently shading the entire eyelid. Shaping the arch of the eyebrows and applying a highlighter under the brow can also open up eyes. 

Q: How can I enhance my eyes and still have a soft, natural look? 
A: Try using eye shadow instead of eye liner. Take a dark color and blend it close to the lash line. Then apply a coat of a "natural-look" mascara. 

Q: My lips are thin. How can I make them appear fuller? 
A: To create the illusion of fullness, start by using a pencil lip liner to define the outermost part of your lip line. Apply your lipstick with a professional lip brush, blending the lip liner, and add a slightly lighter color in the center to create contour. Avoid dark-colored lipsticks. 

Q: How can I define the shape of my lips? 
A: Define the outline of your lips with a professional lip brush or a lip liner pencil that closely matches the color of your lipstick. Then apply your lipstick with the lip brush, blending the liner with the brush. 

Q: My eyes are spaced too closely together. How can I make them look more wide-set? 
A: Apply a light-colored eye shadow or concealer to the inner corner of the eye and blend well. Accentuate the outer corners using eye liner, shadow and mascara. 

Q: My eyes are too widely set. How can I make them appear more closely spaced? 
A: Wide-set eyes are often due to a wider nose bridge. The solution here is to shade the inside corner of the eye and along the inside bridge of the nose with a neutral-tone eye shadow, blending well with a professional eye shadow brush or sponge. 

Q: How can I get that "nude" look I see on high-fashion models? 
A: The easiest way to create a "no makeup" look with polish is to choose eye shadow shades in soft beige, brown and vanilla tones. Apply foundation to entire eye area, then brush lids with a slightly deeper tone, using an even deeper shade in the crease. Apply vanilla- tone shadow under brow. Blend, blend, blend. Finish with brown or clear mascara. 

Q: My eyes are deep-set. How can I bring them out? 
A: Avoid using dark eye shadows and don't use shadow in the crease of your eyelid. To bring your eyes out, try using a light-color eye shadow on your eyelid. 

Q: My eyes protrude. How can I make them appear to recede? 
A: To set your eyes back, use a dark shadow on your eyelid. If your eyes are large or round, apply an eye liner first. 

Q: How can I achieve the "smoky" eyes I see in magazines? 
A: Use a dark, intense eye shadow color and blend it very well with a professional eye shadow brush, all the way around the eye, from corner to corner, on brow bone and eyelid. Blending is essential for a "smoky" look. 

Q: My lips are very full. How can I minimize them? 
A: Full lips are often considered sensual and beautiful. But if you want to minimize full lips, use a lip liner pencil, like Beautique's professional lip liner pencils, to define the inside of your natural lip line. Fill in with lipstick or Beautique's Lip Crayon. Try a slightly deeper colored lipstick. TIP Soft Sculpture To create soft facial contours, apply a very small amount of contour powder, starting at the ear and sweeping toward the middle of the face. Blend well with a large brush. Apply a small amount of blush just above the contour. Blend again. Go slowly, using products sparingly and working in bright light. Step back and take a look; if the effect is obvious, you've used too much. 

Q: I have dark circles under my eyes, but when I apply concealer, they look too light! How can I achieve the right balance? 
A: Try choosing a concealer in a slightly darker shade. Don't use a concealer that is lighter than your own skin tone. Instead, choose your concealer to match your skin tone and keep in mind that it is natural to have light shadows under the contour of your eyes. Dark circles benefit from a yellow-based concealer. Dot concealer over dark circles

Q: What are bronzing powders? How should they be used and applied? 
A: Bronzers simulate the look of being "sun-kissed" or lightly tanned. They are golden or bronze-toned powders or creams that work well on a wide variety of skin tones. For a "sun-kissed look," apply bronzing powder lightly, over the cheek bones, the bridge of the nose, above the brows and on the chin—all of the most prominant areas of the face that the sun would normally color first. For a tanned look, apply bronizing cream sparingly over the whole face. Powder bronzers be applied with a professional blush brush; cream bronzers should be applied with fingers or a makeup wedge. 

Did you know?
Most people visit their cosmtologists several  times throughout the year, but very few understand what it takes to become a licensed cosmetologist.  A cosmetologist is licensed by the same licensing agencies that license Doctors and Dentists.  The cosmetologist takes 1500 hours of training and must know subjects like; Building Blocks of he Human Body such as Cells, Tissues, Organs, Body Systems, and also Mocrobiology, Infection control, First Aid, Basic Body Systems including the Skeletal, Muscular, Circulatory, Nervous, Digestive, Excretory, Respertory, and Endocrine systems.  Electricity in cosmetology.  Chemistry and the pH scale.  The Chemistry of Cosmetics.  Matter; Elements and the Chemical Bonds.  Salon Ownership and Retailing.  We must know these subjects to be licensed to touch people as professionals.  We are also taught extensively about Client Satisfaction.  How to care for and love our clients.  We are also taught Haircutting forms and procedures, Thermal styling, Wigs and Hairpieces, Perming, Chemical Relaxing, Color, The Study of Skin, Nails and much more.  All for you, the client!

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